At Coclico, we are interested in fashions that last. Materials are considered for their strength, comfort, and utility and are fastened by expert craftsmen with an eye for detail. We do this so that with the right care you can wear your shoes day-after-day for years. I recently met with another woman obsessed with clothes that stand the test of time, the curator of Costumes and Textiles and the Philadelphia Museum of Art and editor of Style, She Wrote, Laura Camerleno. As we toured Philadelphia’s Old City together Laura let me in on her personal and professional take on archive worthy style.
What makes for fashion that is worthy of the archive? Our collection consists of fashions that have been seen on recent designer runways that have been donated to the Museum as well as more rarified items with interesting family histories. In fact, the skirt that was the subject of a very famous Matisse painting was recently discovered in the family attic. That was a very exciting acquisition.
Above left: Woman in Blue, 1937, Henri Matisse; Right: Woman’s Skirt depicted in “The Large Blue Dress”, Made and modelled by Lydia Delectorskaya, 1937
What are your personal style-guidelines or rules of thumb? I believe in dressing for one’s shape and in clothes fitting properly. I’ve become much more rigid on the latter rule of thumb over the years. But I suppose that’s bound to happen when you spend your days styling mannequins to the nth degree for exhibitions!
Who are your fashion icons? I adore Audrey Hepburn. I’ve enjoyed her movies and her style since I was a teenager. Whether she was wearing a Givenchy gown or a simple shirtwaist, she always carried herself and her clothes beautifully.
Totally with you! We love Audry too. Now that it is finally warming up, what are 5 things you are loving for spring? I always love trench coat dresses and lightweight scarves in the spring. This season, cut-out ankle booties, like Coclico’s Farlen booties, drawstring leather bags, and crop top/skirt or short sets are also on my wish list. I also just finished reading Elizabeth Cline’s Overdressed: The Shockingly High Cost of Cheap Fashion. The book really made an impression on me and on how I intend to shop, so much so that I logged onto Cline’s website to review her ethical designer shopping list. I’m not sure if you are aware, but Coclico made her cut!
Left: 1. Band of Outsiders Trench Dress 2. Joie Mabel Bucket Bag 3. Coclico Farlen Heels. Right: 1. Whistles Juno Flamingo Feather Print Copped Silk Shirt and Skirt 2. Graf Lantz 3. Jules Smith Americana 4. Erickson Beaman 5. Wildfox 6. Coclico Jaqen Wedges
Do you wear Coclico? Yes! The Opal booties are my favorites; I’ve worn them non-stop this winter. They’re super comfortable and pair well with most of my cold-weather wardrobe.
What’s on the horizon? A professional goal has always been to organize a show featuring the work of one of today’s emerging fashion talents. I’m delighted to say that this project is actually going to be realized. I can’t reveal the details yet, but stay tuned! Update: Laura’s newest show Gerlan Jeans Loves Patrick Kelly debuts this month.